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True Roller Timing Chain:
Recently, I installed a new timing chain in my '96 LT1.
After hearing of others (thank you pioneers!!) on the Fbody list converting to the much less
expensive yet stronger Cloyes style double row true roller timing
sets, I decided to follow their lead..
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Next imperative is that you MUST clearance your stock timing cover:
The double row true roller is necessarily wider and so the timing cover
thickness must be relieved in order to keep the rotating timing
gears and chain from hitting and grinding against your timing cover.
Below is a picture of the cam sprocket area that was removed. You
MUST ALSO check the crank sprocket for contact as well. DO THIS CLEARANCE
WORK BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE NEW SEALS! The easiest way to
check for clearance is to install the timing set, then lightly coat
the outside of the timing chain with some assembly lube. Just enough
to coat the chain though. You DON'T want to put so much on there
that it either drips or is piled on there. Now put the timing cover
on without the gasket. Press it tightly against the block. Then pull
the timing cover off and look at the inside of the cover. Any areas
that have the assembly lube on it need to have a grinder taken to
it. After grinding, always wash/clean all grindings out of the
timing cover so they don't fall into the oil pain during the
re-installation. Repeat this process till no more assembly lube
shows up.
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I chose the CompCams True Roller:
I purchased this from I.R.S. (Internet
Racer Supply) for about . Compare this to the outrageous
replacement LT1/LT4 timing sets costs.
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Timing MarksYou MUST line up your timing Marks:
This timing set comes with 3 keyways, intended for Non-LT1 motors. Each keyway represents either, 4 degrees advanced, straight up or 4 degrees retarded cam timing. Use the "O" designated keyway for straight up. NOTE! When piston Number one is at TDC, the keyway in the crank snout is about about the same angle as the cylinder bores on the drivers side of the motor, NOT STRAIGHT UP! There is a second "O" on the crank sprocket that is smaller. THIS IS THE REFERENCE FOR THE ALIGNMENT OF THE CAM/CRANK SPROCKETS. Having said that, once you are sure you're at top dead center, the crank timing set sprocket has to have the little "O" on it that, when installed on it's key on the crank, points straight up. The cam sprocket has a dimple/dot on it that points straight down when installed correctly.
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